Fuwa Fuwa Shippo~!
Ever since her debut in the recent All Japan Plamo Radicon, this particular cutie has caught my eyes…
Coming this February, Aoshima’s Character Nuigurumi (Plushie, if you will… :P) series will release Horo in her most kawaii chibi form! Kyaa~! XD
She comes with her signature removable cape as well! :D
Fluffy tail is fluffy… <3 Already had her preordered at Otacute alongside Nendoroid Luka… ^_~
Other entries in this series include the full cast of Strike Pantsu Witches, which will gradually make their appearance one by one…! :3 For now Yoshika, Sanya and Eila are available for preorder… ^_^
Melancholy of a Sole Appendage
Another exhausting yesternite, in which I’ve managed to finish a single arm of my MG Blue Frame 2nd Revise… Panel lining the parts are quite a chore, especially the ones around the outer forearm armour pieces… ^^;
Anyways, here’s the comparison of the MG’s arm with its counterparts; The PG Red Frame and the 1/100 Blue Frame 2nd L…
A cutter is a must in the ways of Gunpla constructing… During the good old days I used scissors instead for the purpose, which causes severe pain around my fingers… ^^;
Anyways, here’s the comparison of the MG’s arm with its counterparts; The PG Red Frame and the 1/100 Blue Frame 2nd L…
As you can see here, the MG arm is pretty much a scaled down version of the PG kit, albeit much slender and more feminine… The MG also looks more refine than the blocky 1/100…
Arm bending in action; Multiple joints around various parts give the MG and the PG a much more natural, human like movement… While the PG features armour sliding gimmicks on its biceps, the MG instead introduces sliding elbow armour, a trick we can see on most of the latest MG kits available…
As expected from a MG kit, it can do a full 90 degrees outwards bending, while its counterparts face limitations around the wrist area…
The MG kit reveals its further versatility against the other two by doing an almost 180 degrees inwards bending, almost touching the centre of its own forearm, making it the superior hands down… ^^;
Each of the Astray incarnations also exhibit very different approach at the shoulder joint; The PG have reinforced rubber joint for the connection; The 1/100 uses a standard polycap to do the same; The MG employs a T-shaped rubber cylinder instead, in which I think is the best… :3
We’ll take a look at the shoulder pad next. I purposely leave out the PG kit’s shoulder pad because it’s not quite the same as these two… As you can see, the MG’s shoulder pad is slightly smaller than the 1/100’s, but packs with details here and there…
Also note on the connector of the shoulder joint… The 1/100’s is obviously flawed as its shoulder pad only half-attached onto the shoulder joint, which causes accidental drops while posing… >,<
The MG kit’s shoulder pad also include an extra gimmick around the end of the pad, in which you can slide a certain part inwards to allow more movement space for the arm itself… 0_0
Now a look at the weapon rack, of which the Blue Frame can carry its Tactical Arms around… The MG’s rack looks like a single flat, aero-dynamic looking piece of shield while the 1/100 sports a rather odd, uncool and obstructive thingie at its place instead…
The only complain I have on the MG version is the loose grip between the hydraulic cylinder and the weapon rack.
The hydraulic cylinder between the weapon rack and Blue Frame’s spine extends and retracts accordingly to the movement of the upper body as shown… Nicely done! :D
That’s it for today’s documentation… Continuation on the MG kit tomorrow nite… ^_^
On another note, I’ve been bombarded with questions from comrades for quite some time now on how I did my panel linings and cutting Gunpla parts, so here’s an omake on how I did mine… ^_^
A cutter is a must in the ways of Gunpla constructing… During the good old days I used scissors instead for the purpose, which causes severe pain around my fingers… ^^;
You remove a part from its runner by cutting the protruding sprues holding that particular part apart, but do not cut directly on the part itself as you may damage the part…
Only after you manage to remove the whole part from the runner itself you may clean up the excess sprues…
There are times when there are leftover sprue marks in which your cutter cannot reach… You may try sanding it so it becomes smoother or you can do it my way: knifing… Just be careful for not hurting yourself while doing so, and always face the blade outwards, away from yourself…
I usually do the panel lining before I snap fit them together… Don’t ever worry about too thick the lines when you’re trying to achieve thin line effects… Just draw away! I personally recommends the oil based Black Gundam Marker for Sumiire use, but you can try using other types of pen and even pencil of minuscule tip… :)
Here comes the fun part: Cleaning up the lines. I use cotton buds and the Gundam Marker Eraser pen for all occasions like this… Just slightly push the tip onto the cotton bud so its liquid caught onto the bud itself… Just slightly as you don’t really need much… XD
Gently wipe the excess ink off the surface… You may have to do this a few time with a couple or more clean cotton buds, depending on the mess you’ve generated… :P
And the final product… Nice thin lines!
My method works best on surface with deep ravines such as this example but not quite so on other areas… ^^; Anyways it’s all depend on you on how you do your Gunpla in the end, these are just my two cents… ^_^
オタクールチャーの坂 