Standing by the hill-side gazing over the Cool Culture of Otakuism!

Skeletal Calves

Really need longer weekends… T_T Busy schedules overwhelmed me, leaving me with less time spent on the Gunpla… >,<

Panel
lining x decaling along with the flow of the assembly saves me from a lot of
trouble as I won’t have to disassemble the whole kit just to apply
those tiny little pieces of sticky signs and symbols when I have to.

On
the down side tho, it consumes quite a lot of precious hours as I have to
put down my cutters and switch to my tweezer and decal pieces to and
pro… ^^;


Managed only to finish the absent arm and the lower body over the course of a couple of days on and off, sans a majority of the outer armour pieces on the left leg…

The missing outer armours aside, between the different versions of the Astrays, the MG looks very skinny and skeletal while the PG overly bulky… The 1/100 version looks much more natural in my opinion…

Comparison shots with the counterparts… Rotation over the thigh joints aren’t too apparent on both the MG and PG version of the Astray… 1/100 version did a better job by allowing you to do over 90 degrees of rotary articulation… Looks like the original wins by a margin in this department.. :3

Notice how the thigh armour attached onto the frame… For both the 1/100 and PG version, the armour is slapped on as a separate piece while the MG’s is designed to fit together as a single piece…


Kneeling pose can be archieved by all versions, altho the MG does it more naturally while the 1/100 is stiff as a log… XD Some innovations are required to make the PG kneels in an acceptable way, so to speak… 0_0


Just like the PG, the MG possesses the hips side skirt inner frames, allowing you to do difficult poses by adjusting these parts from obstruction, especially the thigh armours…

Notice that the MG’s are attached to the back of the hips instead of the front similar to the PG’s; The front skirts are fitted onto the frame as well unlike the PG which are piced together with its crotch armour…


Legs splitting time… Sideways-wise, only 1/100 failed to do so… Notice the way the MG bends its ankles, not even PG can do that! :D



However, the MG’s rear skirt kinda in the way for it to properly do a regular legs split, even the 1/100 does a better job than it… >,< As for the foot joint, the MG’s aren’t as impressive as the PG’s as it can bend only slightly…  -_-

Now a thorough view on Blue Frame’s weaponry… Both versions have hidden Armour Schneiders on both the tip of their toes, but the 1/100’s look shorter and broader… ^^;

Hand held Armour Schneider racks are docked beside the Frame’s thighs… The MG’s are huge and intimidating while the 1/100’s are ordinary and smaller than Strike’s very own folding Armour Schneiders… >,< Also note the significantly lower placement of the rack position than the 1/100’s…

However, the MG have extra Armour Schneiders at the end of its heels as well… Just like the ones hidden at the tip of its toes, these ones are adjustable, extending and retracting to hide from plain view…


See those fins-like thingies at the rear skirt? Those are called Power Pack Adapters, which will be attached onto Tactical Arms in its Gatling Mode… The ones on 1/100 are HUGE!

A look at Blue Frame in full… ^_~ Do note that the whole design is a little bit unbalance as Blue Frame is having difficulty standing on its raised platform feet even as it is… >,< I cannot imagine it without the support of Action Base 2 once I attach the Tactical Arms II onto it…



Omake Dai Ni Dan! After my mini tutorial last time, another comrade asked me on how I did my decaling… So here are some insights on my method… ^_^

Applying these dry transfer decals are quite easy actually… First you’ll need to cut out the particular decal you want to apply, one by one please… Cut them as close to the decal itself as possible due some surface maybe very small to apply on… You don’t want any excess piece to block you way, no?


Next
is to put it onto a piece of scotch tape… Regular ones work just fine
for me… :D Note that you’ll have to put the reflective side face up

If you’re having trouble differentiating the surface of the decal, just
shine a light onto it… The matte side is the adhesive side so you
don’t want to stick them onto the tape… ^^;

Now apply the tape over the intended surface… The tape helps securing your decal over the surface, so make sure you got that right…

The next step is to put some pressure on the decal! XD Using an out-of-ink pen which serves me for many years now, gently rub the decal onto the surface. Make sure you rub all the decal thoroughly…

Finally, remove the tape and you’re done! You may notice my lack of skill at these applications to have caused this uneven applications… But never mind! XD



Next we’ll have a look at clear stickers… :P Most of these stickers are small so you’ll need a tweezer to help you with it… Just remove the sticker from its sheet and gently apply it onto the surface and you’re done… :3

Don’t apply pressure too hard at first, gently adjust the sticker to position using the tweezer… After you’re done, pressure away by any means! Sometimes I use my nails directly and at other times I use the same pen method I mentioned before… :D


Hope my method helps those in need… ^_^

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2 responses

  1. Chris

    Thanks for the tutorial! I was wondering though, the decal you’re holding in your hand, did you peel it off the base when you cut? Why is it transparent?. I thought decals have a white base ‘paper’? Haha, and also the mystery of how you take pictures of both your hands? Timer mode?

    2nd November, 2009 at 15:58

  2. yunamon

    Have to be careful… If you hold it too tight it will transfer to your fingers… ^^;The white tracing paper is just a protective base in which you can take off at will… Yes I did use timer… XD

    2nd November, 2009 at 22:07

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